Check out my vlog for a trip summary!
With towering red sandstone formations, secret caves, and trails that wind through otherworldly landscapes, Sedona has some of the most awe-inspiring hikes in the American high desert. Its vast intertwining trail system offers something for every type of hiker whether you’re into geology, looking for a serene retreat, or testing your physical endurance. Combined with the plentiful lodging options spread across the city, Sedona is a perfect destination for thru day hiking so you can also enjoy its vibrant arts and local culinary and wine when not on the trail.
Big thank you to Nisanga (pronounced “ni-song-ga”) at iRide for making my thru-hiking trip vision come true! When he and his copilot wife Pratima picked me up at the airport, I felt like I was getting picked up by relatives I haven’t seen in a long time — there was an immediate warmth, comfort, laughter, and trust. I learned a lot about them and the area, particularly as they’ve seen the exponential growth of the tourism industry in a city they’ve called home for over 30 years. Even with the decades of living here, their excitement and awe of the striking red rocks as we entered and exited the city was absolutely contagious. This also might be the first time in my life I’ve had anyone sing to welcome me for arriving! It’s a refreshing reminder that we can’t be grateful enough for the simple joys in nature’s beauty.
I started my afternoon near Uptown with a warm up hike around Snoopy Rock. It took me a little bit of staring to see it, but once I did I couldn’t stop seeing Snoopy lying on his back! There are quirky rock formations all around that are fun to spot (bell rock, coffee pot rock). Overall Uptown offers some excellent viewpoints with relatively light foot traffic on the trail despite being so close to the most touristy part of town. If you’re here, I recommend staying at a hotel that overlooks the serene Oak Creek quietly running through town as a quiet retreat.
Uptown Sedona has a striking unique personality — lots of shops ranging from indigenous jewelry, bohemian-chic clothing, local working artists studios, upscale cafes, wine bars, and tour operator stands. There were plenty of view points where you can sit and get lost in time staring at the red rock landscape. Interestingly, there were hardly any gear shops which struck me as surprising given the amount of outdoors activities you could experience around the corner (although climbing isn’t allowed as the rocks are fragile). It makes me wonder that the vibrancy of the town and its views are the primary draw — hotels here aren’t allowed to build up past a certain height to preserve the view. Great hiking seems like an added bonus. As an outdoors lover, for me it’s the reverse — I’m here for the trails first and foremost.
My next days were packed with hiking different areas and hence ending at different hotels across Sedona. Red Rock State Park shows Sedona’s quieter side that has looping trails and panoramic views of striking rock formations including the famous Cathedral Rocks. For inspiring views looking down into Western Sedona, head towards Schuerman Mountain which is also great for bird watching and more vista views. This is the high desert, so the native animals are javelina, snakes, coyotes, and mountain lions. During my entire time on the trails, I only came across dozens of lizards frantically scurrying past my feet and small black and blue birds hidden amongst the trees. Nevertheless it was important for me to stay vigilant given how often I had the trails all to myself.
The busiest trail I hiked was towards Devil’s Bridge, and there’s a good reason as it’s definitely a clear landmark. At 7 am (to beat the heat!) it wasn’t log-jammed like other popular trails I’ve been on in the past, but I was passing small groups coming down every 15 minutes. My timing was fortunate as when I arrived, there were only a few others ahead of me waiting to get their Instagram picture on the natural arch. I can easily imagine the line becoming super long had I arrived another hour or two. The trail crowd immediately dissipated as I headed north towards Birthing Cave. A short steep scramble up to the cave and I had the entirety to myself. The cave is shaped like a womb so you can feel its spiritual energy. I used it a perfect snack break stop while taking in the incredible landscape view of the valley. The hike to my hotel thru Boynton and Long Canyon was shared only with the infrequent mountain bikers who were also enjoying the solitude and multitude of interconnecting trails. It’s a perfect area to quiet my mind, connect with my inner stillness I craved despite my feet constantly moving, and simply be present.
Soldier’s Cave is another popular hike, but hit the trail early morning and you’ll be blessed with the shade that the mountains on the east provide. On the way you pass some diverse sights — a very wide sinkhole and the “Sacred Pools” where large shallow divots in the rocks with rainfall water gathered into small pools (think a line of tide pools but without the ocean critters). My first thought when I arrived at Soldier’s Cave was that this was literally just a hole in the wall. But upon closer inspection, you’ll find a secret area to scramble into the short cave, and was so much fun to sit in a cutout looking down and out at the trail.
There’s something mystical and alluring about the silence of the high desert. It’s a full-body immersion into nature, geology, and spiritual nature. And my trip structure of multi-day thru-hiking while staying in different hotels allowed me to see different parts of Sedona. An added bonus of never having to deal with the notorious parking challenges at trailheads and in town. If you want to experience this trip, reach out to me here!