Mountains
Moderate
Hiking
Many of my hikes around the world leave me inspired, nourished and yet hungry for more outdoor gems. One that had a recent profound impact on me was my (self-guided) hike in southern Turkiye. I kept thinking back to it and it’s what planted the seeds of Self-Guided Trails. The Lycian Way is Turkiye’s first long-distance hiking trail (470 mi / 760 km) and it winds through former settlements and roads from the ancient Lycians. I mean ancient – we passed by stone forts, amphitheaters and tombs from the 5th century BC!
(source: Culture Routes Society)
The Lycians (we heard it pronounced “ly-see-ans” and “lick-yans” in Turkish) were the people who lived in that area and were conquered by everyone it seems – Ancient Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans, Persians. Their cities were perfectly located along the Mediterranean trade route, which meant we hiked with incredible views of the glistening blue sea on one side and forested mountains on the other. We started in Myra, now Demre, one of the Lycians’ most powerful cities and interestingly where Saint Nicholas was its bishop (yeah the Santa Claus). Walking through Myra immediately makes you feel its antiquity. The jaw-dropping cluster of rock-cut tombs carved into the cliffs seem impossible and haunting. Right next to it is a very well preserved theater where you can easily imagine the thrum of the crowd. As these were one of the first sights we saw, the bar was immediately set pretty high.
Even so, the rest of our trip didn’t disappoint. Our multi-day hike took us from one small coastal town to another. Although November was a high season given the warm Mediterranean climate, the trails were fairly quiet as we’d walk for hours before running into another hiker. Occasionally super friendly local dogs would happily pass us up on the trail just by themselves, clearly with a mission towards their destination. No trail cats – do they exist? I’d love to meet one! Every town we stayed in however, was filled with adorable community kitties happily lazing around the streets and cafes. As an avid animal lover, I was in my happy place.
Some days we hiked along the gorgeous coastline, skipping and scrambling across limestone rocks and marveling about the nearby remote Greek islands scattered across the sea. Other times we hiked away from the coast, threading through olive groves and pine forests. What really made this experience so unique were the Lycian ruins we came across. When we arrived at the small fishing town Kaleüçağız, we took a small speed boat to see and swim near the partially submerged Lycian city of Kekova. The remnants of doorways and tombs are very clear, and if you looked close enough you can spot etched crosses on the stones. The rest is left to your imagination.
My favorite ruin might’ve been Apollonia, from the 500s BC, where we had the entire citadel to explore ourselves. We spotted it atop a hill, half-swallowed by vegetation, and found a goat path to scramble up. If it weren’t for some British hikers we passed a few days earlier who told us to look for a hidden amphitheater in the back, we likely wouldn’t have found it.
I could’ve kept hiking if I had the time. When I returned home, something new in me was stirring. As an adult I’ve always loved to hike and travel, but this was the first time I recognized how much it nourishes my soul. My daily life is so busy but when I’m on a trail, somewhere between one step and another time slows. The trail demands attention but it also frees the mind; I’m happily present with just my breath and footsteps. And when I arrive at an incredible view, there’s an intrinsic feeling of satisfaction that I’ve earned this with my own sweat.
It was also so liberating to have a service that provides all trail routing, lodging, and luggage transfers so that I can flexibly enjoy day hiking at my own pace and experience the journey with whom I want to be with. Staying overnight in towns, rather than camping along the trail, was so enriching as I’m more immersed in the local community and can fully experience its warm hospitality and incredible home-cooked meals. It’s how I discovered my favorite Turkish dish Taze Fasulye (a simple green beans dish but I can’t find the right beans back home in the States!).
Lastly, this experience made me reflect that the joys of a thru-hike needn't be just for backpackers. It just requires complicated transportation coordination, but it can be done. I thought about my many trips where I’ve structured means of transportation so that I could thru-hike. That, plus experiencing the vibrancy of a local community is something I want to inspire and bring to other outdoors lovers who are made for the trails and want to lead their own adventures – hence the seeds of Self-Guided Trails were planted.
